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| Car Tips |
- What you are about to learn
may prove to be the best automotive time investment that you have
ever made and, it’s free. The information that is now in
your hands is based on over one million miles of driving and countless
hours of research and experience. If you follow this advice it
will be very difficult to "wear out" your car. People have used this method in countless vehicles from a Ford Escort
to a Lingenfelter modified Corvette. In short, it works and it
works well.
Our company would like
to begin by stating that there is no connection
with any of the brands recommended; nor does our company receive funding, free
product or any other means of compensation for endorsing their
products. They are recommended because they work.
Drive Trains
The drive train is the heart and soulefects, the following will all but eliminate drivetrain
problems allowing you to drive your car indefinitely. of an automobile and drivetrain
dysfunction is the main cause of owner dissatisfaction. Barring
mechanical d
Motor Oil & Filter:
The single most important item effecting engine longevity is
motor oil and the frequency of servicing or changing the oil.
There are two critical points to remember about oil changes.
The first is the frequency of oil changes and. the second is
the type of oil that is used.
All oils are not created equally. As a matter
of fact they are not even close in most cases. The following
is a ‘primer’ on oils and will cover mineral oils
and all of the synthetics that are used for automotive application.
Mineral Oils
Mineral oils are refined by various processes from crude oil.
Most are paraffinic crudes, which contain lots of ‘wax’;
some are naphthenic crudes, which have little wax and lower
pouring (temperature) points.
Distillation of crudes gets us gasoline,
petroleum distillates, asphalt and lubricating oil. All crude
oils have molecules of various sizes; some of these shear easily
and some do not shear easily. Also, they usually have different
boiling points. Multi viscosity oils are usually a blend of
several of these base stocks with viscosity index improvers
and other additives.
NOTE: In 1996 the phosphorus content of
all energy conserving oils was dropped from approximately 1600
PPM to 800PPM. As a result, there have been some valve train
wear problems with many oils. Before the 2004 models,
all energy saving oils will have their phosphorus dropped to approximately 400PPM in order to insure catalytic
converter life for 150,000 miles.
This will exacerbate the problem. As
of this writing (April 2003) Mobil1 with SuperSyn in 0w-40,
the European spec oil, still has over
1000 PPM of phosphorus. There are no valve train wear
problems with this oil. It is a combination of the patented
SuperSyn technology and the added
phosphorus. If you car requires an energy saving oil
we suggest that you stock up on this before August of 2003 when
the formula must change. It is available only from AutoZone. We should note that the non "energy
saving" oils will always have 1600 ppm of
phosphorus and we have used Mobil 1 in this weight (15w-50)
since 1986 with no problems. Two cars
presently get the European spec oil for warranty
considerations as they must have energy saving oil. As such, these LS's get the European Spec 0w-40. When
the warranty is out they will be converted
to 15w-50 and the only car that will still use the 0w-40 will be the drag race car which is run dead cold
and shifted at 7300RPM's. With this
forewarning, read about synthetics and make your own choice.
Synthetic Oils
There are six families of synthetic oils; of these, four are
approved for automotive application and they are as different
as night and day. Take the time to read this,
as your choice will greatly effect your engine’s longevity
and functioning. Finally, a recommendation is made that
is based solely on personal experience — this keeps the lawyers off of our backs.
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- POLYALPHAOLEFINS (PAOs) or Olefin Oligomers
are the most widely used synthetics and are composed of two
or more decene molecules, which form a short chain length
polymer. These molecules are very uniform in size and resist
shearing. They are hydrocarbon structures that are free of
all metals, sulfur and phosphorus. They are completely wax
free and have an incredible range in viscosity. They will
pour at —40C and will not boil or coke until the temperature
exceeds approximately 450F. Lubricity and thermal stability
are their forte’ but they are limited in their ability
to dissolve some additives and may shrink seals. Adding small
amounts of ester eliminates these problems.
- DIBASIC ACID ESTERS (DIESTERS) are synthesized
by reacting alcohol with an acid. Their structures are more
varied than PAOs but they also contain no wax, metals, sulfur
or phosphorus. They are clean running and can dissolve some
deposits that other oils cannot dissolve. Like PAOs they have
excellent pour points. Their additive selections are very
critical and should be used with chemically resistant seals.
- POLYOL ESTERS (POLYESTERS ) are also formed by reacting acid
and alcohol. The difference is a polyol is a molecule with
two alcohol functions in its’ structure. Like diesters,
they contain no contaminants that are detrimental to oils
and have excellent pour points and viscosity indexes. With
proper additives, they are more stable in that they resist
oxidation better than diesters. Like diesters, seals should
be chemically resistant to prevent leakage.
- ALKYLATED AROMATICS are formed by reacting
olefins with aromatic materials such as benzene. Like PAOs,
they have excellent thermal stability and viscosity indexes.
In functioning, they are the most closely related to PAOs
and offer excellent sheer stability etc.
Having stated the very basic differences
in oils, it is recommended that all automobiles with relatively low
mileage, under 25,000 — 50,000 miles, depending on the care
previously given to the oil change frequency, use a PAO synthetic.
Our company recommends MOBIL 1 synthetic and only MOBIL 1 synthetic motor
oils. Even in 15-50w, MOBIL 1 will flow at —55F and will
not coke until temperatures are in the 500F range while giving
a lubricity that virtually eliminates all engine wear. Varnish
and sludge formation become almost non-existent as do lubrication
related engine repairs. We have seen engines with over 200,000
miles that had all internal components meet new specifications!
One final point: MOBIL 1 is the oil of choice for most Formula
1 cars and road racing vehicles. The red line for Formula 1
cars is between 17,000 and 18,000rpms. Think about this, it
says quite a lot.
During the warranty period one should use
the viscosity recommended by the manufacturer. In reality the
10-30w will protect at any temperatures encountered in all fifty
states.
The oil change interval should be every
3,000 to 5,000 miles depending on the severity of your driving
conditions. Remember that city driving is far harder on the
oil than highway driving as is towing and extended high-speed
motoring.
The oil filter should be replaced at, every
oil change and only quality filters should be used. OEM filters are recommended, or the following aftermarket brands: MOBIL
1 and PUROLATOR. Other equally good brands may exist.
Finally, a word about additives - NO. To
be direct most modern additives are directed at engine wear
and protection and they are probably beneficial with conventional
oils. The lubricity of the MOBIL 1 is so great that these additives
have virtually no effect besides costing you your money.
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Gasoline & Gasoline Filter
An area often overlooked is gasoline. Many
people give no thought to their car’s fuel tank and what
they put in it. They are under the impression that if the gas
has the recommended octane rating that everything will be o.k.
- not so. When buying gas, buy only
gas from one of the major refining companies. Companies like
EXXON, CHEVRON, AMOCO, MOBIL, SUNOCO etc. are all fine in that
they have the necessary additives to keep your fuel system clean.
A word about octane ratings - they are not
linear. That is a 92 octane is not one percent less that 93
octane. That one point is considerably more and you need to
remember this point. Generally speaking, one should use the
octane recommended by the manufacturer or one higher. Where
high octane is a requirement the highest octane available at
ALL of their stations here on the east coast is SUNOCO with
a minimum of 94. In reality here it tests 95 to 95.5 on a regular
basis.
Gasoline additives are generally not needed
except to clean a dirty system. Most gas does a good job of
keeping fuel injectors clean however some cars seem to have
particularly sensitive injectors. One product
that works exceptionally well in
keeping injectors 99% clean is RED LINE SI - 1 & SI - 2
Injector and Valve detergent. It has been added to a 92 Corvette’s tank at about 20,000
miles and the car felt more responsive. Using this at 5,000 mile intervals for the health
of your fuel system is recommended.
RED LINE injector cleaner is available at
Pep Boys and various other outlets.
There are two other items that have a great
effect on your fuel system: the gas and air filters. Gas filters
should be changed every 20,000 miles as should the air filter.
For gas filters we recommend OEM filters particularly in fuel
injected cars. Most modern fuel injection systems operate at
high pressures and a dirty filter will reduce the level of performance
and efficiency. Also remember that cars burn oxygen and the
more oxygen an engine gets the more efficient it becomes. In
cases where the maximum amount of air flow is needed we recommend
using a K & N air filter. These filters flow better that
any other filter available and they can be cleaned and oiled
for indefinite use.
Return to Navigational Table |
Spark Plugs
The ignition system of a modern car is electronic and almost
worry free. There are only really two items to be concerned
with: spark plugs and ignition wires. For optimum performance
spark plugs should be changed every 10,000 miles and we recommend
using either OEM spark plugs or another major brand of the same
heat range. A.C., CHAMPION, AUTOLITE, BOSCH and NGK all make
good spark plugs and you may have a preference however, we would
advise against some of the ‘gimmick’ spark plugs. Platinum plugs
do offer a longevity advantage over standard spark plugs. Do not leave a spark plug
in for more than 20,000 miles be they platinum, gold or whatever.
If you talk to an engine builder,
specifically a performance engine builder, they will tell you
that there is virtually no difference in power produced from
one spark plug to another. The big differences are in heat range
accuracy. Heat range is critical for optimal performance, especially
in a high performance application. Here we can recommend three
brands of spark plugs in the order of preference: Champion, Autolite and Bosch. The reason heat range is so critical has
to due with engine detonation which can destroy an engine instantly.
Any of the above plugs are quite accurate in their heat ranges
but Champion seems to be the most consistent in heat range accuracy.
This is quite a turn around for Champion as in the late 60’s
and 70’s they were not held in particularly high esteem.
Finally, avoid any plug that uses a ‘welded
on’ exotic electrode substance such as platinum. If you are going to use platinum, make
sure that the entire electrode is fabricated from platinum.
One last plug tip; ask around in the better auto supply houses
and you will find that one company makes a lot of their competitor’s
products to their competitors specifications; you will
be surprised.
Ignition wires are almost a specialty item
especially with the new ignition systems. They carry a great
voltage load and with time they will break down. Replace these every 50,000 miles with OEM ignition wires. Aftermarket ignition wires can fry an ignition system
due to incompatible resistance that overtaxed the ignition system.
There is an exception to this
advice, and that is the addition of an aftermarket ignition
system. Many street cars and virtually 100% of the racecars
use an aftermarket ignition system. The reason has to do with
two things: spark energy and energy delivered over a broad RPM
range.
Should you convert to a quality aftermarket ignition system
such as a MSD, Accell or Jacobs you will almost certainly have
to change your ignition wires. The new ignitions produce so
much voltage that the OEM wires will most likely be overtaxed
and, as such, arc. This arcing can be to a ground with a resultant
engine miss or the arcing can be to another wire causing a plug
to fire at the wrong time which can have very nasty results;
it’s not good to fire a plug when that cylinder has its
intake valve open.
It is recommended to use a quality aftermarket ignition wire set
if you are going to install a high output, aftermarket ignition
system. Sometimes the ignition makers also make ignition wire
sets; if so, get the best set that they offer. You may also
use other ignition wire sets with your aftermarket ignition.
Personally, we have a car with an Accell 300+ ignition system
and Magnecor ignition wires.
The following is a truism: change the ignition system — change
the ignition wires. Follow this practice and your engine will perform well.
Finally, your car’s antifreeze
should be changed every two years to insure the desired protection
from the cold as well as acid formation that can be destructive.
At this time your hoses and belts should be examined and replaced
if necessary. When replacing antifreeze we are going to recommend
that you use only TEXACO/HAVOLINE antifreeze. The Texaco formula
is free from abrasive silicates that are found in many popular
brands of antifreeze. These silicates can harm your water pump
and cause other damage. TEXACO antifreeze is compatible with
either aluminum or cast iron engine components and can be used
in all automobile applications.
Return to Navigational Table |
Transmissions and Differentials
Most people ignore
their transmission and their differential until they have a
problem. Our objective is to eliminate the problems before they
surface.
Automatic transmissions require very little
service. We recommend changing the transmission fluid and the
filter at 5,000 miles and then at every 25,000 miles. Baring
abuse, this should allow your transmission to go at least 100,000
miles without any problems. Regular towing or other severe use
will necessitate a fluid change at least once a year or at 15,000
miles.
Torque converters are basically a fluid coupling between your
engine and transmission; some are efficient and some are not
efficient. The key is to find the following combination: the
most torque multiplication (efficiency) for your specific needs,
stone reliability and real world longevity.There are myriads of companies that make torque converters
and other after market accessories such as PROMS, exhaust systems
and the like. Well how do you choose? I think that the answer
is the experience of others who have hands on with the product
or products that you are considering.In torque converters, we have personal experience with one
in a 522cu.in., 820HP, 69 Camaro. This car has been converted
from a drag race car to a 'pro street' car. We know others who
have experience with the same brand in C5 Corvettes and we will
soon have one in a rear wheel drive Impala. The only brand that
we personally recommend is Pro Torque. This should beg the question,
why? Pro Torque is a family run business and, they do one thing
only, torque converters, and they do it well. They make the
most power and they are bullet proof. When you buy one of their converters you often get an off the
shelf unit but you will get a custom unit just as often. It
depends on your needs, Horsepower, torque rating, camshaft,
gear ratio, vehicle weight, converter diameter and application
are all taken into consideration. Then your application is addressed;
either custom built or off the shelf.Why Pro Torque? Their products work. The usual improvement
is from .2-.5 seconds in a quarter mile with as much as twenty
five more rear wheel horsepower, and, their are no engine modifications.
As far as real world driving is concerned this means far greater
responsiveness in daily driving.
If you drive a car with an automatic transmission, you owe
it to yourself to talk to the folks at Pro Torque. You owe it
to your transmission too.
Manual transmissions should have their lubricant
changed at 5,000 miles and then at every 50,000 miles. Many
standard transmissions use motor oil as a lubricant and many
use gear oil ( hypoid ) as a lubricant. It is essential that
a transmission designed to use motor oil is not filled with
gear lubricant. Use either a synthetic motor
oil or a synthetic gear lube in all manual transmissions, unless
a non-synthetic is specifically indicated by the manufacturer.
There is a twofold reason for this recommendation.
As with the engine oil a synthetic will greatly reduce friction
and wear on the transmission components giving your transmission
extreme longevity. It will also allow your transmission to run
at cooler temperatures which will also aid longevity. MOBIL 1 synthetic lubricant should be used in all
manual transmissions. The use of additives is not recommeded.
Differentials using gear oil should also
use MOBIL 1 synthetic gear lubricant. In the case of a limited
slip differential a limited slip additive must be used. Differential
lubricant should be changed every 50,000 miles. If ‘chattering’
develops in a limited slip differential the lubricant should
be changed and additive added immediately to prevent damage
to the clutch packs.
Return to Navigational Table |
Wheels and Suspension
There is little maintenance required
on the rolling portion of your automobile but what little that
is required should be paid attention to in order to avoid problems.
Tires & Wheels
Tires and wheels need precious little care beyond front end
alignment, tire pressure and balance. Most of today’s cars
are fitted with cast aluminum wheels that appear to be maintenance
free, for the most part this is correct. The problem is protecting
wheels from damage from brake dust and other environmental pollutants
that may damage wheels. The key is to keep them clean from the
brake dust and other grime that may damage them. Many companies
offer specialized wheel cleaners for cast wheels be they coated
wheels, polished wheels or plain cast wheels. These products
work but may damage paint and rubber components and we do not
recommend using them. To care for wheels use a good
wheel brush and ordinary car wash. In severe cases dishwashing
detergent will often remove the worst grime in conjunction with
a bit more brushing. Keep your wheels clean, not only will they
look good but they will not be damaged by the environmental
contaminants.
Use a coating of P21S wax, followed by
a light application of Pam. (If you use Pam remove the tire
and wheel from the car to prevent getting Pam on the brake components.)
Tires will eventually have to be replaced
and most people usually have a brand or a price in mind. Use
a good tire, most of the name brand tires are more than adequate.
MICHELIN, B.F. GOODRICH, GOODYEAR, FIRESTONE, etc. are all good
tires. Avoid the no name brands often found at discount chain
stores as they tend to be of lesser quality. In the long run
the quality tire is less expensive and usually a lot safer.
There are also times that tires which appear to be perfectly
sound should be replaced. Usually the tread is in excellent
shape with more than 50% of the tread still available
but the tire is reduced to junk. The reason is that the tires
have vulcanized; that is, they have become very hard and have
turned into a virtual plastic. When this happens, traction and
strength are compromised to the point of being very dangerous.
Strangely, we see this mainly on Z and Y rated tires. There is speculation that this has to do with the compounds that must
be used in these tires.
The following is a pretty good way to judge the health of your
performance tires. On a warm day nail the throttle is 1st gear; if the tires ‘squeal’ and go the tires are good.
If the rear end of the car slides around as if you were on a
wet or icy road, with no ‘squealing’, then the tires
should be replaced. The bottom line is that hard tires are dangerous
tires; we would all do well to remember this fact.
Heat Cycling (breaking in) New Tires
New tires are expensive and new performance tires are very expensive.
As such, we thought that we would mention the correct way to
‘heat cycle’ your tires for both longer life and,
more importantly, better traction over the lifetime of your
tires.
When you buy new tires you should heat cycle them to insure
long life and optimum traction. Heat cycling is quite simple
and is imperative for performance tires but few have heard of
this process yet alone know how to do it.
To heat cycle your tires you should do the following: Drive
your car at about 55 to 65 mph for about 10 miles. Then drive
the car slowly to let the tires cool for about 2 or 3 miles.
At this point the car should be parked and the tires should
be allowed to fully cool uniformly. Uniform cooling will require
you to either jack the car up off of the ground or to use Tirecradles.
If you cannot jack the car up off of the ground and if you do
not have Tirecradles, then try to park the car on grass. The
thing that you do not want to do is to park the car on concrete
as this may cause a ‘cold set’ to occur at the site
of the contact patch. This will result in a spot that will always
be a little harder than the rest of the tire. All tires have
a certain number of ‘heat cycles’ in their life; that
is, before they become hard. Correctly heat cycling your tires
the first time will greatly extend the useful life of your tires.
Having said this there is one caveat; heat cycling can only
be effectively done in non-winter months in order for the tires
to build the necessary heat. As such, try to avoid buying new
tires in the winter.
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Shocks
Shock absorbers are essential for control and most people take
them for granted. Depending on the application most shocks last
about 30,000 to 60,000 miles and will have to be replaced. When
replacing shock absorbers we recommend either GABRIEL or MONROE
brand for most non specialized applications. When you replace
your shocks always purchase a slightly heavier unit remembering
that most OEM shocks are designed for ‘ride’ over
control. The heavier unit will actually offer a slightly firmer
ride with a greater degree of control especially at speed. Not
only will good shock absorbers improve your ride but they will
help to preserve your tires and front end components.
Return to Navigational Table |
Brakes
One of the most controversial areas of maintenance are the brakes.
Most people replace their brakes with aftermarket components and
let it go at that, we believe this to be wrong. Drum brakes are
more forgiving than disc brakes and we believe disc brakes to
be often adversely effected by aftermarket brake pads. The reason
for this has to do with the hardness or softness of the brake
pad and the effect that this has on the disc and brake longevity.
Most OEM brake pads are designed to work
with a specific rotor material at specific temperatures and
wear rates. Almost all rotor warpage or excessive wear is caused
by pads that are not fully compatible with the manufacturer’s
design. Staying with OEM replacement pads usually eliminates
these problems and, as such, we recommend them. PERFORMANCE
FRICTION brake pads are a superb aftermarket product.
Return to Navigational Table |
Exterior and Interior
Paints
Your cars finish needs to be protected be it one of the newer clear coated finishes or an
older traditional finish. Paint oxidizes with time and will eventually dull and dissipate
all of which can be avoided with a little care.
All paints contain ‘oils’ that are necessary. These oils
are depleted by sunlight, oxygen, air borne pollutants and incorrect care. More often than
not, it is neglect that destroys a finish. To protect your finish several simple steps are
necessary. First, wash your car on a regular basis with any commercial, liquid car wash
product. Never use household detergents, as they will strip the necessary oils from your
paint.
Avoid silicone based products if at all possible. Go to a quality
automotive painting facility and ask them about the use of silicone
on your car’s paint and you will be told to avoid it at
all cost.
Instead, you should replenish your paint by using a quality
polish and/or wax. If selecting a product for a clear coated
finish it is essential that the product be free of all abrasives
which will quickly dull the gloss effect of the clear topcoat.
Most of the products out there are ok and some are quite good.
The four products that we have a lot of experience with are
MEGUIRE’S MIRROR GLAZE #26, DURAGLOSS #113, COLLINITE’S
NO. 845 INSULATOR WAX and for black finishes DRI WASH ‘n
GUARD. It’s a lot of work but if you really want a great
finish we recommend polishing the car first with DURAGLOSS and
then finishing it with either MEGUIRE’S #26 (paste) or
COLLINITE’S INSULATOR WAX. After over 18 months of use,
(July 2004) we feel that P21S wax is the best we have ever used
for protection, longevity and the shine is about as good as
anything out there too. Generally applying a good product to
your car’s finish every two to three months is enough to
keep it in excellent condition
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Interiors
Interiors and their care are probably the most misunderstood
and the most mistreated. The single most important care that
you can give your car’s carpets and cloth seats is a weekly
vacuuming. This removes the majority of the grit that destroys
these fabrics. For really dirty or stained interiors household
carpet and upholstery shampoos work very well.
Leather, vinyl and hard plastic surfaces are often damaged or ruined
by using one of the so called ‘protectant’ products. These products are usually
silicone based and they have a deleterious effect in the long run. They also impart an
artificial gloss to the surfaces giving them a harsh look. When applied to a steering
wheel or to a leather seating surface they can be dangerous in that they are literally
slippery.
There is a product that both cleans and protects these surfaces
without changing their appearance or feel in any way. The product is LEXOL-ph, a leather
cleaner and conditioner that works equally well on vinyl and plastics. Lexol will even
remove any silicone protectants previously applied, nothing that we have tried to date
will do this.
We have recently tried some interesting products from Stoner, Inc. and our company is quite
impressed with them. Of their product line we have tried four of their products, and while
our experience is limited with them, they flat work.
We have tried their INVISIBLE GLASS, TARMINATOR, TRIM CLEANER and XENIT, all with very
satisfactory results. The INVISIBLE GLASS is great stuff for two reasons: first, the glass
is not only clean but it is streak free, secondly, it’s very easy to use. Following
their instructions, we sprayed it on and wiped it off with old newspaper and got the best
results that we have ever had on glass.
Most drivers hate bugs on a car and usually they
are a chore to remove. TARMINATOR has been used to remove some
bugs that have been on a car forever. It has been sprayed on, let it set for a few
minutes, and then wiped completely away with a damp cloth. Impressive indeed. It is
supposed to work on tar, asphalt and grease but we have not tried it for these, only the
bugs. There is the potential for damage to the paint and
finish of the car with any product used on the car's surface. As with any
product applied to your vehicle, use at your own risk and before attempting
use, read and follow the manufacture's directions. It also wise to apply the
product to a small unnoticeable area before extensive use on the vehicle.
We have an Explorer that is eight years old and the dash and the carpets are a bit rough.
We sprayed the dash with TRIM CLEANER and let it set for about thirty seconds and wiped
away some ‘substance’ that we have been trying to scrub off for years, again
impressive.
The last Stoner product we tried is an all-purpose cleaner that we didn’t use on a
car but on heel marks on tile. We sprayed on XENIT and wiped off the heel marks. It has a
lot of practical applications that would be great in a car; like gum or ketchup in
carpets.
We haven’t tried any of their other products but the products that we have tried,
even if briefly, worked very well.
If you follow these suggestions your car should last as long as you want it to; just remember - proper maintenance
is cheap, car’s aren’t, so take the time to do things
right.
Return to Navigational Table |
Exhaust
The following will apply to street legal ‘cat back’
systems only and does not address racing applications.
First, the two most significant improvements for the dollar are
opening up both the intake and exhaust systems to allow the engine to breathe more
efficiently. The intake has been addressed via the K&N filters and/or systems.
The exhaust is a bit more tricky as claims and reality are often based on mythology
and, real world livability is often an issue, more on these in a bit.
For maximum efficiency, replace the restrictive exhaust manifold
with a set of quality headers that bolts directly to the catalytic converters. These are
usually referred to as ‘shorty headers.’ If possible, it is recommended that you purchase headers that are fabricated from stainless steel and have them coated by a
reputable firm such as Jet Hot or Airborne Coatings. This coating process actually helps
the thermal efficiency of the system as well as adds an attractive appearance. Finally,
they insulate well and allow cooling much more rapidly then a non-coated system.
As to the cat back system itself, the market is best described as a Pandora’s box.
With most systems there is a trade off, and, depending upon your viewpoint it may or may
not be acceptable. We have had experience with the following systems: Borla, Corsa,
Flowmaster and Tn-Flow. Based on these experiences either
the Corsa or Flowmaster is recommended.
First, most cat back systems do offer more exhaust flow than a stock unit
and the exhaust note can be from mellow to obnoxious. The key is to find
both the performance you want and the sound that you want without in cabin
resonance. Cabin resonance can be so bad as to virtually eliminate the
ability to speak with a passenger or listen to the sound system. If you
think that this is not an issue, try driving a couple of hundred miles with
a passenger who you cannot speak to without almost shouting.
Based on such experiences there, is another consideration; systems that use any form of
packing material tend to get louder and more cabin intrusive with age.
The Corsa and Flowmaster systems do not use any type of packing in their systems and
each works in a different way. Our personal preference is the Corsa system. The reason for
this is two fold; first, at cruising speeds the system is totally quiet, usually quieter
than the stock system. Secondly, at full throttle the exhaust note is awesome. Corsa
achieves this by a patented process called "Reflective Sound Cancellation".
Basically their system is a straight through design that has small channels that carry
exhaust pulses from and back to the inlet of the muffler. These returning pulses cancel
out the next pulse at cruising speeds by meeting the next exhaust pulse 180 degrees out of
phase. Each pulse negates the other giving a near silent exhaust note while cruising.
However, at full throttle, the exhaust pressure is much higher and, as such, it
effectively goes straight through the muffler giving a very healthy exhaust note.
The systems are constructed from stainless steel and are guaranteed for as long as you
own the vehicle. The exhaust flow improvement is usually between 40-45% greater
than the OEM unit; when combined with headers, it is greater yet.
Corsa offers their systems with two levels of exhaust note. One is best described as
being crisp and reserved and the other is best described as being bolder in exhaust note.
Presently there is one limitation to the Corsa system. They are only available for
selected models at present but they are constantly expanding their line of systems.
The Flowmaster system uses a series of baffles or chambers that offer minimal
resistance to exhaust flow. They are the number one system used in most "street
legal" drag racing vehicles and they offer various sound levels from mild to wild.
Flowmaster offers a wide variety of applications for almost every vehicle and they
offer many custom applications too. They are constructed from aluminized steel and offer
great performance.
In cabin resonance seems to vary from none to fairly intrusive depending on the system
configuration that you choose. Then again, they probably offer the most variety in a true
performance system
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